Aged Vintage Build Rolex Explorer 36mm with Coffee! Watch Build Guide

After building my last explorer, I wanted to take it one more step and try my skills at an aged explorer.

Aged Vintage Build Rolex Explorer 36mm with Coffee

Key facts

  • This 36mm Rolex Explorer homage build was aged by hand using an instant coffee paste on the dial and hands.
  • It uses a clone 2824 movement running at a low beat of 21,600 bph for a vintage feel.
  • The hands and dial were coated in coffee paste and heated under an oven grill in 15-second bursts until the lume darkened.
  • The case, with drilled lugs and a 28.5mm dial opening, was aged with beach stones, a Dremel sander and polishing paste.
  • The finished aged Explorer is worn on a tan suede strap.

Parts used

Movement
Asian 2824, 21,600 bph
Buy movement
Dial
Vintage 6610 style Explorer dial
Case
36mm smooth bezel, drilled lugs
Hands
Explorer style hands for the 2824
Buy hands
Strap
Tan suede
Buy strap

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After building my last explorer, I wanted to take it one more step and try my skills at an aged explorer. So time to get the coffee out and start aging! The build is super picture heavy with over 40 photos.

Sourcing Parts

For this build i used a clone 2824 movement, explorer dial and explorer style watch hands.

The 2824 movement clone i purchased actually was a low beat 21,600 bph and gives it that vintage feel. You can pick these up on eBay

Get 2824 Movement

Vintage style black Explorer dial with 3 6 9 numerals before aging, on a tan mat

I purchased vintage dial for an explorer and its perfect to start aging

I purchased an explorer case that allows the 28.5mm dial and fits the 2824 movement. This case has drilled lugs just like the vintage style.

Old style Submariner hour, minute and seconds hands for the 2824 Explorer build

These are old style submariner hands that will look great in the explorer for 2824

Get Hands

For the strap I wanted a stylish vintage feel so i purchased a tanned coloured suede strap.

Get the Strap

Aging Watch Hands

So for both aging the hands and dial we will be using a coffee paste. This is super simple to create. You will need a spoon, instant coffee, a small bowl, paintbrush and a kettle.

Instant coffee jar, kettle and bowl with spoon ready for making the aging paste

Let's get started, put some of the instant coffee into the bowl and boil the kettle. You want to pour a small amount into the bowl and on the coffee. Use the spoon to stir and mush the coffee in to a paste.

Instant coffee granules and hot water being stirred into a paste in a bowl

Now you have the paste you can dip your watch hands into the paste - make sure its not hot still!

Watch hand held over the bowl after being dipped in the coffee paste

Put the watch hands onto some foil and im using an grill built into my oven. I will put them under for around 15 seconds at a time.

Coffee coated watch hands laid out on kitchen foil before going under the grill

Here you can see it has an open flame and will heat some of the coffee onto the hands. Be careful not to leave for to long. I once burnt the lume out of a set of hands.

Open gas flame of the oven grill heating the coffee coated hands on foil

Remove the hands after 15 seconds and either reapply more coffee or use the paintbrush to remove coffee until you get the right colour you are looking for.

Watch hands on foil after grilling, with a paintbrush removing excess coffee

Aging Watch Dial

Now i found the best way to apply coffee to the watch dial is to use a paintbrush here im getting more of the paste to apply to the dial.

Paintbrush loading coffee paste from a spoon in the bowl to apply to the dial

You can apply layers until you get the effect you want. Here you can see half the dial covered with the coffee paste.

Explorer dial with coffee paste brushed over half its surface on paper towel

Now im going to bake the dial under the grill again, looking back after i think you could actually put the dial to one side and let it dry and you would get the same effect. So try the put to one side first before baking.

Coffee covered Explorer dial on foil ready to be baked under the grill

The lume going while its under the grill, move out every 15 seconds and check you are happy. It changes quickly and be careful not to burn the dial.

Explorer dial lume glowing green while baking under the grill on foil

Now remove from the grill and set aside. The dial is metal so will be hot i removed using gloves

Aged Explorer dial with darkened lume cooling in a clear plastic tray

These are the finished watch hands after they have dried. If you think they are too dark you can use a bit of water on the paint brush and slighty brush to remove some of the coffee

Finished coffee aged watch hands with golden lume in a small clear pot

The dial after it has dried off

Dried coffee aged Explorer dial with yellowed lume and patina near the 7 marker

Aging Watch Case

You can see we have the watch case for the explorer and we will want to add a bit of aging

Polished 36mm stainless steel Explorer case with drilled lugs before aging

I dont want to damage the dial so i am covering with some masking tape.

Explorer case with the crystal covered in green masking tape for protection

Also i dont want the side of the case getting damaged, so i put the case back onto the watch.

Explorer case with caseback fitted to protect it before stone tumbling

I got some stones from the beach and put them into a small plastic bag and placed the watch case inside, i shook them for around 30 seconds and check. I was happy with this effect and removed.

Taped Explorer case inside a plastic bag of beach stones for distressing

Here you can see the aging it has added to the case and is starting to look great. Give the case a rinse with some soap and water to remove any dirt from the stones.

Gloved hand holding the Explorer case to show scratches and wear from the stones

To also remove some of the sharpness from the case im using a Dremel with a sander attachment and running it along all the edges of the cases and around the lugs.

Get Dremel Tool

Dremel sanding attachment softening the edges of the Explorer case lugs

You can see the effects on the case now

Close up of the Explorer case side showing softened edges and drilled lug holes

I now want to remove some of the roughness and tidy the case up a little so im using some polishing paste and my Dremel to give the case a polish.

Explorer case next to a pot of polishing compound and Dremel polishing pad

Finally for the case and ultrasonic clean removing any dirt and polishing paste

Explorer case, caseback and parts in an ultrasonic cleaner tank

Dial Prep

You can see the dial has now fully dried and i can start removing some dial feet as it comes with feet for different movements, You will want to keep the feet just above 3 and below 9.

Fully dried aged Explorer dial held between fingers before dial prep

Back of the dial flipped, you can see the dial feet

Back of the Explorer dial showing the multiple dial feet for different movements

Check your movement to make sure you are snipping the right dial feet. Now you can snip them off with some clipers

Back of the Explorer dial after snipping off the unneeded dial feet

Now removed use a foil to remove any remaining metal from where the old feet where.

Gloved finger holding the dial back where a foot was filed flat

Dial and Hands onto Movement

Now we have the 2824 movement ready for the watch dial

Clone 2824 movement with date wheel sitting in a movement holder

Flip the dial over and attach the dial ring

Back of the aged dial with the dial spacer ring fitted around the edge

On the movement turn over and where the dial feet are you will need to pull out the holders. You can pull these out with small tweezers

Underside of the 2824 movement showing the dial foot holders to pull out

Now attached the dial to the movement and turn over push the dial feet holders into the movement to secure the dial.

Gloved hand pushing in the dial foot holders on the 2824 movement

The watch dial is now attached to the movement. Time for the hands

Aged Explorer dial fitted to the 2824 movement in a holder, ready for hands

Im using a small bit of rodico to help hold the hand while i bring over to the movement. Align up with the 12 marker and use a hand press to push the hand onto the movement.

Rodico holding the aged hour hand as it is lowered onto the Explorer dial

Do the same for the minute and second hand. Be sure to align the hour and minute hands at the 12 marker to ensure when using the will be correct at all hours.

Fitting the minute hand onto the Explorer dial using rodico and a hand press

The hands are now one the movement.

Aged Explorer dial and movement with all three coffee aged hands fitted

Remove Stem

Now turn the movement over watch the hands and remove the stem in the winding position. Put a small screwdriver into the little hole above where the stem enters the the movement. Only press lightly enough so the stem will become loss and come out with ease.

Back of the 2824 movement with stem and crown, ready for stem removal

Once you have removed the stem. You can put the movement into the case

Aged Explorer dial and movement placed into the distressed 36mm case

Put Movement into Case

You need to make sure the case movement ring in put around the movement and use the watch clamps to secure the movement in the case.

Movement secured in the Explorer case with the movement ring and clamps

Now we need to trim the stem and apply the crown. I cover this in my other watch builds in alot more detail. Now you need to put the stem back into the watch and apply the watch base.

Trimmed watch stem held in pliers beside the open Explorer caseback

Finished Vintage Explorer

Now we have a finished vintage explorer that has been aged. I put this on a suede watch strap.

Finished aged vintage Explorer 36mm showing the patina dial and worn case
Front view of the completed coffee aged Explorer build with drilled lugsFinished vintage Explorer build on a tan suede strap with cream stitching

Frequently asked questions

How do you age a watch dial with coffee?

Mix instant coffee with a little boiled water into a paste, then brush it onto the dial in layers until you like the effect. You can let it dry on its own or place it under a grill for 15 seconds at a time, checking often so you do not burn the lume.

Is the Rolex coffee watch method safe for lume?

It works, but heat is the risk. Leaving hands under a grill too long can burn the lume out, so heat in 15-second bursts and brush excess coffee off with a damp paintbrush if the colour gets too dark.

How do you make a watch case look aged?

Mask the crystal and fit the case back, then shake the case in a small bag with some stones for around 30 seconds. Soften the edges and lugs with a Dremel sander, polish lightly, and finish with an ultrasonic clean.

What movement can I use for a vintage Explorer build?

This build uses a clone 2824 movement with a low beat of 21,600 bph, which gives a vintage feel. It needs an Explorer case made to fit the 2824 and a 28.5mm dial.